Visitors (and
pilgrims) to the Saint John Neumann Shrine at St. Peter the Apostle Church at 5th
and Girard Streets will find an attractive monastery like setting. Besides the
chapel, resplendent in gold, marble and a Byzantine icon of the Virgin Mary in
place of a statue, there’s a café that can seat 50, an atrium with piped in
Georgian chant, and a gift shop with a rich selection of rosaries and unusual
statues of Our Lady of Fatima. Capping the complex is a museum devoted to the
life and work of St. John Neumann (1811-1860), born in the Kingdom of Bohemia , now the Czech Republic . Neumann migrated to the United States in 1836 where he became the fourth bishop of Philadelphia (1852-1860).
The Neumann museum has attracted the
attention of roving urban reporters who would otherwise not report on religious
topics. The ‘more-hip-than-thou’
RoadsideAmerica.com, for instance, informed
its readers that the shrine is where St. John Neumann, “is dressed in a miter and vestments,
and resembles a big rifle bullet inside a glass-sided gun barrel.”
This description, despite its military
industrial complex analogy, indicates that the writer was to some degree
mesmerized by what he saw. The writer continues:
“…
When Neumann was exhumed in 1962 it was reported that he was remarkably
well-preserved for someone who had been buried for over 100 years. His body has
nevertheless been given a wax face, to remain presentable.”
Patrick J. Hayes, Ph.D, Archivist (for the)
Redemptorist Archives of the Baltimore Province ,
guided me on a tour of the museum. Hayes never mentioned bullets, though he did
point out the hangman’s noose that was used to hang two brothers at Moyamensing
Prison. The story goes that many clergy had failed to convert the two brothers
prior to their execution. One clergyman did succeed, however, and that was
Bishop Neumann. There’s no record of what Neumann said to the condemned although
it probably had something to do with spending eternity in Dante’s Inferno. The
hood that was placed over the condemned men’s heads is also prominently
displayed, creating a kind of Mutter Museum
chill. (The noose and hood were both presented to Neumann sometime after the
executions).
As for
Neumann’s “death relic,” RoadsideAmerica.com reported that when Neumann was
exhumed in 1962 he looked remarkably well preserved. That’s not quite the case,
however.
“They
first brought him up out of the ground in 1902. The coffin he was in was found
to be water damaged but the Bishop himself was looking pretty good close to 40
years after his death,” Hayes said, adding that he was redressed and placed in
a second coffin and put back in the ground.
In 1962
the body was exhumed again. “The coffin
was okay but Neumann was looking like he’d been dead for 100 years… in all that
time you get a little leathery, kind of mummified,” he said.
Hayes
said he has the photographs of the exhumed 1962 body “in a folder.”
In 1962,
the decision was made to reconstruct Bishop Neumann’s face forensically. When
the old death mask was removed it was put in a vault because it is considered a
second class relic by the Catholic Church.
In the
years before the Second Vatican Council Bishop Neumann’s body was in a glass
altar set back in the sanctuary under the tabernacle. After the revolution/wreck-o-vation
in church architecture, Neumann was redressed in period vestments under the
direction of then Cardinal Rigali and placed in front of the altar so he could
be easily seen.
“The
Redemporists” Hayed noted, “decided to get him out of the 1962 apparel then
prevalent, which made him look like he was covered in aluminum foil.”
The
“little bishop,” just 5’2” tall, loved to walk everywhere. “But he had a lot of self doubt. He thought
of quitting and asked a number of American bishops about the possibility of
taking a smaller diocese. He wanted out of the limelight in the worst way,”
Hayes said.
As a student at the University of Prague he
was known as the ultimate egghead-intellectual. Hayes recounts how as a
seminarian the future Philadelphia
bishop could detect the slightest bit of heresy coming from his professors.
“This caused many of them to be brought down for their ideas,” Hayes
added. “But it also made him
tremendously humorless.” Unlike, say, St. Philip Neri (1515-1595) commonly
known as the patron saint of humor.
But this
intellectual who spoke multiple languages (which endeared him to immigrant
communities), elicited a lot of laughter when he clumsily mounted a horse, his
feet barely reaching the stirrups.
The museum contains Neumann’s books,
documents, letters, prayer books and papers. A nature lover, his collection of
botany books are also on display as well as a copy of the Douay Rheims Bible,
printed in 1870 by Philadelphia
publisher Matthew Carey. According to Hayes, the museum’s copy of the first
English language Catholic Bible is the best preserved of the 40 remaining
copies worldwide.
You’ll
also find a simple pale wooden altar with a small tabernacle on top where the
saint used to say Mass. The
paleness of the wood makes it look more like a chest of drawers than an altar.
Inside the small tabernacle door, which is not easy to open, is where some
leave prayer requests. Nearby is another chest of drawers, albeit of darker wood,
where the saint once said Mass for a family named Kelly. A hole that looks as
though it had been crudely carved by a knife mars the long counter top. Hayes
said that when Neumann was celebrating Mass for the Kelly family one of the
candles caught fire and burnt a hole through the wood. The hole now acts as a
drop off point for more prayer petitions.
A large
monstrance reminiscent of the one used by actor Jeremy Irons in the film, ‘The
Mission,’ casts a golden hue onto the
museum floor, illuminating the bishop’s encased vestments, especially his cope,
which he would have used at Benediction.
I asked
Hayes if there was ever a problem with people confusing Cardinal Newman with
John Neumann.
“A
classic example,” he said, “is the statue of St. John Neumann in Saint Peter’s
Basilica in Rome .
When the Italian sculptor was finishing the job he had only the label to make,
so he turned to a Redemporist and asked how the saint’s last name was spelled.
‘N-e-w-m-a-n-n,’ the Redemporist answered, so Saint John Neumann is mislabeled
in Rome .”
The
marble stoop originally at 13th and Vine Streets where Bishop
Neumann collapsed and died stands at the entranceway to the museum. Philadelphia ’s
Archbishop Chaput stood in front of the stoop when he blessed the museum on April 29, 2019 .
The
story of Neumann’s death has become the stuff of legends, but how many know
that he had just left the post office to check on the whereabouts of a chalice
he had restored for another priest. Thinking he had mailed the restored chalice
to the priest some time ago, he was surprised when a Post Office clerk told him
it was not mailed but had been placed on a shelf for insufficient postage.
After
paying the additional postage, the little bishop continued on his rounds but
collapsed from a stroke in front of a house owned by a Jewish couple who were
the first to discover his body.
A glass
stained window in the museum shows an idealized image of the bishop in spotless
clerical garb after his fall.
Thom Nickels
Contributing Editor